French Hair Pin Size Guide: Which Length for Your Hair
A French hair pin holds because it passes all the way through the twist and catches hair against the scalp. Too short and it never reaches; too long and it sticks out. This guide gives the numbers, by hair length and thickness, for U-shaped French pins, hair forks and hair sticks.
French hair pin size chart
| Your hair | Pin length | Pin width | Colette pick |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine or thin, shoulder length | 4 in (10 cm) | 0.75 in (2 cm) | French Hair Pin, set of 2 |
| Medium, shoulder to mid-back | 4 to 4.5 in (10 to 11 cm) | 0.75 in (2 cm) | French Hair Pin, Nacre, Minimal |
| Thick, or mid-back and longer | 4.5 to 5.5 in (11 to 14 cm) | 0.75 to 1.2 in (2 to 3 cm) | French Hair Pin single (5.5 in), Sculpt 13 cm, or two pins |
| Very thick, curly or waist length | 5 in and up, or a 3-prong fork | 1.2 in (3 cm) and up | 3-Prong French Hair Fork, Riviera Fork |
How to measure for a hair pin
- Twist your hair up the way you wear it and hold it with one hand.
- Measure the twist from top to bottom where the pin will go through.
- Add 1 in (2.5 cm) so the pin can catch hair at the scalp and still show its top. That is your pin length.
For most people with shoulder-length hair that lands at 4 inches. For a full bun on long hair it lands at 5 inches or more.
Width matters as much as length
A standard French pin is 0.75 in (2 cm) across. The two prongs sit 0.3 to 0.4 in apart at the tips and grip the twist between them. A wider pin (1.2 in / 3 cm) spreads that grip across more hair, which is why the large pins and the three-prong forks hold thick hair better than a slim pin. Fine hair wants the slim pin: less metal, less weight, and the prongs sit closer to the scalp.
The curve is the hold
Look at a good French pin from the side and it is not flat. It has a gentle bow, about 7 percent of its length (a 4 in pin bows about 0.3 in). That curve follows the shape of your head, so the pin lies flat against the scalp and the twist cannot slide off the prongs. A flat pin pops out; a curved one stays. Every Colette pin is curved.
Hair stick size chart
Hair sticks are sized by the bun, not by hair length. Put a pencil through your bun, measure the part that is hidden, then add 1 to 1.5 in (2 to 4 cm) on each side.
| Your hair | Stick length | Stick thickness |
|---|---|---|
| Fine, or shoulder length | 4.5 to 5 in (115 to 130 mm) | 4 to 4.5 mm, light (about 10 g in metal) |
| Medium, mid-back | 5 to 6 in (130 to 155 mm) | 5 mm |
| Thick or long, waist length | 6 to 7 in (155 to 180 mm), or a pair | 5.5 to 6 mm; a heavier stick holds dense hair |
A stick should be pointed enough to slide in and never sharp. A satin finish grips better than a mirror finish, which slips in fine hair.
Hair pin vs hair fork vs hair stick
- French hair pin (U pin): two prongs, 4 to 5.5 in. Fastest for a chignon or French twist. Best on fine to medium hair, or thick hair in pairs.
- Hair fork: two or three wider prongs, usually acetate. Best on thick, curly or very long hair.
- Hair stick: one straight rod, 4.5 to 7 in. Goes in from the side of a twisted bun. Best for buns on medium to long hair; a pair for thick hair.
Colette sizes at a glance
| Product | Length | Width | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| French Hair Pin, set of 2 | 4 in / 10 cm | 0.75 in / 2 cm | Fine to medium, shoulder length and up |
| French Hair Pin, single | 5.5 in / 14 cm | about 0.75 in | Thick or long hair |
| Nacre Pin | 4 in / 10.1 cm (small), 4.25 in / 10.8 cm (large) | 0.75 in | Medium hair, two sizes |
| Sculpt Pins | 4 to 5 in / 10 to 13 cm by shape | 0.75 in | Shorter for fine hair, 13 cm for thick |
| Bun Combs | 7-tooth 3 x 2.5 in (7.8 x 6.5 cm), 4-tooth 3.5 x 2 in (8.8 x 5 cm), U pins 3 in (7.6 cm) | Anchoring buns and braids |
Size questions
What size French hair pin do I need?
Shoulder-length fine or medium hair: 4 in (10 cm). Thick or longer hair: 4.5 to 5.5 in, or two 4 in pins. Measure your twist and add 1 inch.
How long should a hair stick be?
The hidden part of your bun plus 1 to 1.5 in on each side. Most people land between 5 and 6 in (130 to 155 mm); thick or waist-length hair goes to 6.5 in (165 mm).
Will a 4 inch French pin hold thick hair?
One 4 in pin holds a tight twist on medium-thick hair. For thick or very long hair use two pins crossed, a 5.5 in pin, or a three-prong fork, which spreads the grip.
What is the minimum hair length for a French pin?
Hair long enough to twist, about shoulder length (12 in). Shorter hair works with a hair stick or comb pins for a half-up.
Why does my hair pin fall out?
Usually it did not catch hair at the scalp, or the pin is flat instead of curved. Push the pin in against the twist, catch a little scalp hair, flip it 180 degrees and slide it down. If it still slides, go up one size.
Ready to pick? Start with the French Hair Pin, or read how to use a French hair pin.